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Under Southern Skies


澳大利亚忽然之间进入了我的旅行计划里面…自从2011年从新疆回来以后由于家里的各种大宗工程和采购,差不多有两年没有旅游过了 – 一方面是没有时间,另外一方面也是因为最近两年的财政都是红得发紫的赤字…


在澳洲好友的邀请之下,虽然还在每月辛苦的还债,但还是下定了决心即便要背上更多的债务也要好好的旅游一次!


这次的打算便是趁着比较有空也比较容易请假的新年假期去澳洲过一个夏日新年。澳洲游的行程大致分为3段:悉尼-墨尔本及大洋路-塔斯马尼亚东岸,前面第一段由悉尼的好友领着游览,后面两段便是自己租车自驾游玩。


在澳大利亚租车游玩很方便,各大机场、城市都有非常多的租车公司可供选择,下飞机后就可以直接拿车,价格也不算贵 – 我在墨尔本租的2012款丰田Aurion(就是国内的最新款Camry凯美瑞)4天的租金约为220澳元,相当于1420元人民币,与国内同级别车型的租价差不多。但车况和洁净程度远比国内优胜。


经过7个多小时的通宵飞行,在早上9点30分左右到达悉尼。出乎意料的,我们上飞机时穿着的衣服下飞机后穿也没感觉热。处于夏季后段的悉尼碰上阴天天气,这个海滨城市的温度可以从前一天的接近30摄氏度一路直降到20度以下。天气多变,日夜温差大看来是澳大利亚天气的特点。


经过长途跋涉,身体比较疲惫,到达澳大利亚的第一天没有安排很多的活动。主要是到Watson’s Bay, Bondi Beach以及朋友家附近的购物中心和Costco逛逛。


经过一晚的休整,第二天开始全面进入到暴走模式。在火车站(悉尼的轨道公共交通主要叫Train,包含了地下和地面轨道,但只有在市中心里面才走地下)买了22澳元的1天通行票(Day Pass)准备纵横悉尼。Day Pass允许你在24小时内无限制的乘坐包括火车、巴士和渡轮在内的绝大多数公共交通工具,是旅游人士不错的省钱交通方式。


首先是来到City(市中心)里面超级繁华的地区的QVB – Queen Vitoris Building,这座建筑被誉为世界上最美的购物中心。无论是外观还是内部,都非常华丽。


逛完了购物中心之后,我们乘坐轮渡从Circular Quay前往Manly海滩 – 这边的海滩文化是其中一项最为值得体验的东西。可惜由于天气原因,没有能够下水,只是在海滩边上转了一下…


讲了这么多的废话,该是交功课的时候了 – 著名的悉尼歌剧院以及悉尼大桥。这是头两天在悉尼真正花时间和精力拍摄的照片。适合拍摄这两座举世闻名建筑物的地点很多,这是其中一个能够同时把City、歌剧院以及大桥同时摄入镜头的地方 – Royal Botanical Gardens的北边角落。[请点击图片观看全尺寸大图]


其实这次旅行的重点并不在悉尼,而是接下来的两段 – 墨尔本和大洋路以及塔省。所以悉尼的两天有一点休整意思在里面。第三天一大早,我们便乘飞机飞往这次路途的真正起点墨尔本 – 一座被誉为最适合居住的城市。


从墨尔本下飞机开始,便租了台车自驾旅游了。订车的时候本来是打算租和国内雪弗兰Cruze科鲁兹同级别的中级车,但AVIS的大妈给分配的却是一台丰田Aurion。澳洲的Aurion其实就是国内的Camry凯美瑞,而且还是最新款 – 这已经是属于Full Size级别了,享受了一把免费升级的待遇。


我们在墨尔本市逗留2天,主要是游览中心里面的景点 – Fitzroy花园、墨尔本博物馆、Federation Square联邦广场及旁边的Flinder St. 火车站、Docklands码头以及在全澳最高的建筑物Eureka Skydeck 88上欣赏墨尔本的美丽夜景。


墨尔本为游客准备了2种免费的交通工具游览这座城市 – 观光巴士以及很有特色的旧式有轨电车(City Circle Tram),大大减少了游客在交通费用上的开支。乘坐City Circle Tram就可以游览市中心的大多数著名景点,很方便。


在澳大利亚的中餐馆用餐,你可能觉得这边的菜单会比较单调 – 由于要同时照顾华人和当地人口味和喜好,这边的中餐餐单上会更多的出现以炒、烧、炸、煎为主的烹饪方式的菜色。即便是在粤菜为主的餐厅,要在餐单上找到蒸、炖、灼类的菜肴难度也是比较高的。


无论在晴天或是阴天的日子里,澳大利亚的紫外线都是非常强大的,记得要在出门之前把防晒给涂好,不然的话一天之后回到酒店可能就会变成熊猫了。


我觉得在墨尔本参观的最有意思的地方就是墨尔本博物馆。在这里,你可以看到包括自然、生物、人文历史等主题在内的展区。全部都经过精心设计和安排,带有很强的互动性。


在澳大利亚游览,大多数景点都是免费参观的,收费的通常是带有需要人工维护或拥有高质量体验的地方。我们在澳旅行,一路上只碰到过3个收费进入的地方,其中第一个就是墨尔本博物馆。


今天的墨尔本是世界上其中一个最适合人居的城市,但回顾这座城市的历史,旧时候的墨尔本却不是一个那么令人向往的定居点。


墨尔本本来并不是英国殖民政府计划当中要成立的定居点。首先来到这里的移民多数是被发配到澳大利亚的曾经犯事的或者是穷困潦倒的英国人。刚建城的时候,甚至没有政府机构、没有供排水设施、没有警察消防队、没有医院 – 基本上就是什么都没于,有的是穷人、疾病和罪案。


今天墨尔本如此美丽繁华是经过了很多代移民的艰苦奋斗得出来的成果,不容易啊。推荐计划要到墨尔本旅游的同学到博物馆来看看,10澳元的门票是物有所值的。


参观了墨尔本博物馆时间已经是5点多,赶紧找个餐馆吃晚餐准备晚上到全澳洲最高的建筑物Eureka Skydeck 88欣赏这座城市的夜景。


Eureka Skydeck 88位于流经墨尔本的Yarra River的南岸,每天都有很多游客到这里从高处观赏这座城市的景色。出示南航飞往澳洲客机登机牌的旅客可以获得8折优惠,每位成人约15澳元。


我们达到88楼的时候已经是人满为患,大伙都在猛按快门。从这里向外面眺望,确实能够观赏到美丽的城市景色,但由于室内的装饰灯光以及玻璃的反光,这个地方其实不是特别camera friendly。打算要在这里拍摄的同学可以考虑带上一块黑布用来遮挡镜头周围的玻璃反光,同时也别忘了把偏光滤镜给带上。闪光灯到了这种场地自然成了废物,把自动闪光给关掉吧,我旁边的各位…


行程的第五天,我们正式踏上自驾之路,从墨尔本往大洋路进发。这次租到的Toyota Aurion是台不错的车,很新,配置也很齐全 – 定速巡航、倒车影像、蓝牙音响、自动空调、电动座椅和支持iPhone/iPod的USB接口一应俱全。除了不是真皮座椅[织物座椅更耐用更不显旧]和没有天窗[天窗真心不实用],其它配备是应有尽有。


在澳洲自驾,推荐事先在自己的智能手机上装上TomTom导航软件 – Android和iPhone都有对应的版本。澳大利亚的移动电话网络覆盖不如中国的好,城市以外的地方有时候是没有信号覆盖的,所以准备一款离线导航软件是非常必要的。


大洋路是世界上有名的景观公路,由澳洲政府组织一战退役的士兵修建。


在大洋路上驾驶是一种享受 – 汽车穿行在沿海而建的公路上,一边是山,一边是海,上面有蔚蓝的天空和太阳,下面就是能够把车开到100公里时速的优质公路。在这里自驾一天下来基本不会感到疲劳。


我们是从墨尔本途径Lorne洛恩午餐下午到达Apollo Bay住宿,然后次日再前往著名的12门徒岩石附近的Port Campbell投宿。


离开城市之后要注意安排好住宿地的到达时间和晚餐的时间 – 因为普通小镇上的超市一般过了6点就结束营业了,餐馆过了7点或7点半也没东西吃了[喝的倒可能还有]。反正需要人工操作的服务到了下班时间就铁定找不着人的。


经过大半天的驾驶,我们到达Apollo Bay。这是一个有着美丽海滩的小镇,特别适合喜爱水上运动的人。


推荐要到这里的人提早预订入住Captain’s At The Bay酒店,房间可以用豪华来形容 – 根本不像是家Motel。价格不便宜100多澳元1个晚上,但好不容易出来旅游一次咬咬牙应该还是能够接受的。


Apollo Bay迷人的日出景色,不可错过~


在小镇上的生活大概是挺休闲也挺单调的吧?每天能够做的事情用十个手指头就能数出来,但确实也令城市人无限羡慕…


每个海边都是不一样的海边,但每个海边都是非常美丽。


因为太阳出来以后很快就会变得很猛烈,令拍美丽的照片不容易,所以我们早早的启程,希望能看到和拍到路上更美丽的景色。


早上9点多,经过晨曦中的树林和高地,我们来到这次旅行中最后一个也是最贵的一个收费景点 – Cape Otway Lighthouse。来到这里的公路本身就是很好景点 – 在早晨温柔的太阳照射下的森林里穿行是那么的惬意呀!


Cape Otway Lighthouse允许游客等上塔顶,上面的风不是一般的大,景色也不是一般的壮丽。


这一天要跑的路不多,中午的时候就到达晚上住宿的Port Campbell。


放下行李,我们到Port Campbell镇上的12 Rocks餐厅用午餐。这是一份暖暖的海鲜沙拉,里面有各种鲜虾、青口、鱿鱼和元贝,实在美味!价格不便宜 – AUD$22


由于受到海浪和海风的冲击和洗礼,这里的海岸线呈现出奇特的景观 – 各种“桥”、“洞”和悬崖令人叹为观止。


这个地方叫London Bridge,确实像座桥。在不久的以前这可还是个两孔桥,后来其中的一个孔经不住岁月风沙的洗礼塌下去了,留下了现在的单孔桥。


没有去12门徒巨石那边于其它游客争赏日落,而是走了相反方向来到西边没人的Boat Bay看人生最美的日落之一。[请点击图片观看全尺寸大图]


旅行有时候就是要稍微试试不走寻常路,这样才会看到与别不同的风景。


明天就要跟这台伴随我们5天的Aurion告别了,在塔省有另外一台日产奇骏四驱在等着我们~


看完日落回到住处已经9点多,餐馆自然是已经关门,所以就自己动手做饭了。饭后看到外面天空晴朗,便带着三脚架到屋外把美丽的星空给记录下来。


次日也是天没亮5点半就爬起来开车去12门徒岩石看日出,起早贪黑的我容易嘛!


刚到这里,就遇见了2年前一同游玩新疆的摄影大师0_0!这世上有这么巧的事情吗?!!!人家不愧是大师,一早就呆在这边了,我是天空亮起来之后才刚好赶到的。


游客是可以通过栈道走到下面的沙滩的,我们由于时间有限,要赶回墨尔本搭飞机去塔省,所以没有下去。


请记住Hobart荷巴特这个名字,这个城市值得你花点时间去体验。Wellington Mountain是比去的景点,从山顶可以俯瞰整个美丽Hobart城市。可惜我们到达的次日天公不作美,下起了雨。没能把这座美丽的城市用照片记录下来…


依依不舍的在雨中离开Hobart,我们途径Richmond小镇往Bicheno驶去。


Richmond离Hobart很近,二十分钟车程就到了。来这里的游客主要是参观这里古老的石桥和教堂。


游塔省有很多路线可供选择,我们选择的是东部线路 – 这条线上有Freycinet国家公园(里面有超美的酒杯湾)和Bay of Fires火焰湾,是属于拥有迷人海岸景色的线路。


进入Freycinet国家公园需要购买通行票,每辆车单日票价24块。拥有白色细沙的酒杯湾沙滩就在这个国家公园里面。


传说中的酒杯湾沙滩真的非常美丽,没有垃圾、没有垃圾筒、没有酒店、没有厕所、没有任何污染。换了在中国,酒店肯定能把这个湾占满,然后向游客索要天价的房费


我们这次选择的塔省东部线路也是有着一段与海毗邻的公路,但在这条公路上行走的感觉却与大洋路不一样 – 大洋路更壮阔,海是从上往下看的,Tasman Highway靠海这段真的很靠海,停下车路边几乎就是沙滩了,与海近的不能再近了~


在Tasman Highway靠海这段开车的时候,有那么几次感觉大海比公路海拔还要高,像是走到了世界的尽头…


Bay of Fires是一个很大的海湾,由数个沙滩组成,我们住的Binalong Bay就是其中一个。


这是一间名副其实的海边小屋,在客厅和卧室都能直接看到海景。相信是不少人的Dream House。


在这里可以坐着发呆一天,而且还呆得很有价值~~~


到达的当天傍晚,Binalong Bay就用绝美的晚霞迎接了我们。


住处旁边的这家餐厅拥有绝对美丽的View,也出品绝对高水平的菜肴。


为了对得起这样的房子和这样的房费,我决定令自己有更多的时间保持清醒的状态。第二天5点半爬起来从海滩的这头走了20多分钟到了海滩的另外一头 – 把这里日出用照片记录下来~


这里是我们到过的少数没有手机信号覆盖的镇,但如果你愿意从沙滩的一头走20多分钟到另外一边尽头,老天将奖励你在欣赏美丽风景的同时也获得3格3G信号可以发发微博~


Bay of Fires之所以得名,是由于这里海岸边上的岩石都带有一层火红的颜色,远看以为是着了火一样。


用Google Nexus 4拍摄的Bay of Fires日出全景照片,请使用鼠标在拖动上方图片浏览


如天堂般的2天很快就过去了,我们依依不舍的离开了Binalong Bay往最后一站Lauceston朗塞斯顿驶去。途径了N个九曲十八弯的山路,开车真得小心。


Lauceston感觉没有Hobart那么赶得上潮流,这里有种淳朴的“乡下风”。


由于适逢周末,可能大家下班都回家或是去Happy Hour了,街上前一小时还熙熙攘攘,过了5点就忽然间都静了下来。


在这个城市里,6点钟还在街上走的多数是中国人和游客。


在Lauceston吃过了最后的晚餐,我们这次的旅行也要告一段落了,要跟美丽的澳大利亚说再见了…


这是一次难忘的路程,有很多新的体验,带回了很多珍贵的照片和快乐的回忆。有机会我还要来!

15 Responses

  1. 弜暳嚦 says:

    我觉得你还收埋好多宝唔公开(撇嘴~)

    我以为冇分页系改版的亮点之一呢(偷笑~)唔分咪仲好,大气啊(继续偷笑~),你将图片描述空多一行,格开下就OK了,现在有些密~

    颜色回归明亮了^^ 鼓掌!! (咁靓嘅天空你想玩暗沉,开玩笑,咔咔…)

  2. walkstars says:

    同意楼上啊~~~
    再出出攻略呀~~~~
    意犹未尽啊意犹未尽
    肯定还有很多私藏的照片啊~~~
    独享享不如众享享啊~~~嘿嘿嘿

  3. monica says:

    看到QQ群留言进来看的,首先映入眼帘的就是澳大利亚的风光,真的拍得非常不错,虽然我不懂拍照的技术,但是看得舒服。后来还看了你以前的佳作,但是都是觉得澳篇拍得最靓。特别是感觉构图好靓,好有外国杂志封面的感觉,专业水准,强!还有那些详细耐心的解说,仿佛置身当地一般,非常赞!

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